Peter Athans

Pete Athans is one of the world's foremost high-altitude mountaineers. He is best known for being the only non-sherpa to summit Mount Everest seven times, and has appropriately earned the moniker "Mr. Everest". He first attempted to climb Everest in 1985 via the West Ridge. Unfortunately, he was unsuccessful, and further attempts in 1986, 1987 and 1989 were similarly fated. In 1990, on an expedition that included Scott Fischer and Wally Berg, he was at last successful.

In 1996 he was a key participant in the Everest rescue of several climbers who had severe frostbite. For his efforts the American Alpine Club awarded him and his partner Todd Burleson the David J. Sowles Award. The next year, Athans removed the body of Bruce Herrod, a South African climber who had perished the previous year, from the climbing route high up on the mountain. He also returned the camera and ice axe of the dead climber to his wife.

Pete Athans, almost uniquely for a western Himalayan guide, lived in Nepal for a period of time. He has taken a professional and personal interest in Sherpa culture.