Embroidery stitch

In everyday language, a stitch in the context of embroidery or hand-sewing is defined as the movement of the embroidery needle from the backside of the fabric to the front side and back to the back side. The thread stroke on the front side produced by this is also called stich. In the context of embroidery, an embroidery stitch means one or more stitches that are always executed in the same way, forming a figure of recognisable look. Embroidery stitches are also called stitches for short.

Embroidery stitches are the smallest units in embroidery, embroidery patterns are formed by doing many embroidery stitches, either all the same or different ones, either following a counting chart on paper, following a design painted on the fabric or even working freehand.

Technique

Basically, there are two ways to do embroidry efficiently and orderly. What works better depends on the stitches and materials used, and on personal preference

Hand-sewing method

The needle is brought to the upside of the fabric. For doing the stitch proper, it is inserted into the fabric, and brought back to the surface in one movement. Then the thread is pulled through. The same method is used for plain handsewing.

It is strongly recommended to use a thimble for this. It is best to put the thimble on the middle finger. Once the needle is inserted into the fabric, the hooded middle finger is used to push it through, the thumb and index finger grab it at the front as soon as possible and pull at the same time. This can speed up working when the embroiderer is used to it.

This method can be done using an embroidery frame or free-hand, but in many cases the use of an embroidery frame or hoop will make the work easier. But it needs to be a frame that allows for adjustment of fabric tension, because the fabric mustn't be too strongly stretched in order to allow inserting the needle without pulling the fabric too much.

Stab method

The needle is inseted into the fabric at a 90 degree angle, then the thread is pulled through. Then, the needle ins again inserted, this time from the underside to the surface, again, the thread is pulled through.

Usually it is not necessary to use a thimble for this method, but it can help when pushing the needle through is hard for some reason.

For this a frame or hoop should be used. It can be done faster if the hoop or frame is somehow mounted, so that both hands are free for the embroidery. Then, the dominant hand is held under the fabric, the non-dominant hand above it. The needle is handled by the respective hand without necessity for hand poaition changes.

Common Stitches

Embroidery uses various stitches and combinations of stitches. Each embroidery stitch has a special name to help identify it, and although they are mostly simple to execute, when you put them together the results can be extremely complex.

• back stitch
  • for outlining shapes
• blanket stitch
  • as the name implies, an edging stitch to prevent fraying, but also decorative.
• chain stitch
• cross-stitch (or X-stitch)
• couching
  • Attaching a thread to a piece of fabric by sewing it on. Specialist couching stitches: Pendant couching, Bokhara couching, Square laid work.
• fly stitch
  • Looped stitch, suitable for either repeat or random patterns.
• Holbein stitch
• knots:
  • bullion knots
    • Used as filling stitch or in a line. Worked by twisting thread around the needle.
  • French knots
• lazy daisy stitch
• running stitch
• stem stitch
  • Used for lines and stems, but also used as an infilling stitch.
• whip stitch
• Specialist stitches such as the Quaker stitch used on the Quaker tapestry